How Opals Are Set in Jewellery

How Opals Are Set in Jewellery: The Art of Protecting a Precious Gem

Opals are one of the most mesmerising gemstones in the world. With their shifting rainbow hues—known as play-of-colour—they’ve been prized for centuries as symbols of luck, hope, and creativity. But while opals are stunning, they’re also delicate. Setting an opal into jewellery isn’t just about making it look beautiful—it’s about protecting the gem so it can be worn and enjoyed for years to come.

In this post, we’ll explore the different methods jewellers use to set opals and why care and craftsmanship matter so much with these precious stones.

Why Opals Require Special Care

Unlike diamonds or sapphires, opals are relatively soft, ranking between 5.5 and 6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale. They’re also sensitive to sudden temperature changes and can be prone to cracking. Because of this, jewellers need to use settings that not only enhance the opal’s beauty but also shield it from knocks, scratches, and pressure.

Common Methods of Setting Opals

1. Bezel Setting

The most popular and protective way to set an opal is with a bezel setting. This involves encircling the stone with a thin rim of metal that folds over the edges.

• Pros: Offers maximum protection, keeps the opal secure, and reduces exposure to impact.

• Cons: Can cover a small part of the stone, slightly reducing visible surface area.

2. Claw (Prong) Setting

Less common for opals but sometimes used, claw settings involve small metal prongs that hold the gem in place.

• Pros: Shows off more of the opal, allowing more light to interact with the stone.

• Cons: Provides less protection—better suited for earrings and pendants than rings.

3. Doublets and Triplets

Because solid opals can be fragile, jewellers often create composite stones:

• Doublet: A slice of opal bonded to a black backing (enhances colour).

• Triplet: A doublet with a clear quartz or glass dome on top for extra protection. These are often set in jewellery much like cabochon gems, offering durability at a lower price point.

4. Inlay Setting

Opals are sometimes cut into thin slices and inlaid into channels of metal, often in gold or silver.

• Pros: Protects the opal surface, ideal for bold, contemporary designs.

• Cons: Requires precise craftsmanship, and replacement can be tricky.

The Finishing Touch

Once the opal is securely set, the jeweller polishes both the metal and the stone, ensuring the gem catches light at every angle. The final result is a piece of jewellery that not only showcases opal’s magical colours but also guards it against everyday wear.

Caring for Opal Jewellery

Even with careful settings, opals need gentle handling:

• Store them away from harder gemstones.

• Avoid harsh chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

• Wipe them with a soft cloth after wearing.

Final Thoughts

Setting an opal in jewellery is as much about protection as it is about presentation. A skilled jeweller will choose the right setting—bezel, inlay, or otherwise—based on the type of opal and the piece it’s destined for. The result is jewellery that highlights the stone’s natural fire while ensuring it remains cherished for generations.